If you have no slack there is relatively low impact on your belay if they fall, but if you think about the fact that your device is designed to hold a much greater force (something like a semi-truck) I feel pretty safe with a low impact. In reality when i'm belaying a second on a guide and they are moving up I will often snap a quick photo and grab slack in chunks that my climber is comfortable with. No manufacturer in there right mind will ever tell you it is ok to let go of your brake hand. Weird things can and will always happen, but when they are not happening gear does work.
The important thing to notice is that safe practice ALWAYS means you back yourself up somehow to protect from death. EvanThis is really all that matters here. The point is that all belay devices are very predictable until they are not. I had a knot in the brake end and it was fine.
The point is that all belay devices are very predictable until they are not.Įvan1984 wrote: I had a puckering incident while on self belay at work on a gri where a strand pushed the cam on the device open and I slid. I had a puckering incident while on self belay at work on a gri where a strand pushed the cam on the device open and I slid. They can become fouled in the system in such a way that they don't orient to lock off correctly, you could be using too small a rope, etc, etc. But, like all things, they are not 100% reliable.
ATC GUIDE ROPE FREE
Yes, you can go years using any of these devices hands free without incident. Alternatively, if you are going to be resting for a bit, you can tie an overhand in the brake strand and clip it into the anchor. All of these devices require that a hand be on the brake strand and ready to lock off should the need arise. None of the locking devices-guide, reverso, cinch, gri- are deemed "hands free" by the manufacturer. You must always remember to redirect the break strand high and lowering efficiently takes some practice. In terms of lowering, it is a little bit finicky. In terms of locking off, the guide is very reliable when used properly.
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